placed smack in the middle of the dishes

. You can buy this sauce in many Arab shops, but homemade is the best.
Harissa
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion -- finely diced
3 small dried red chilies -- seeded
15 garlic cloves -- minced
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 teaspoons ground cumin
6 ounces tomato paste -- canned
2 tomatoes -- coarsely chopped
7 cups water -- or vegetable broth
2 bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne -- or to taste
20 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley -- chopped
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
10 sprigs fresh cilantro -- chopped
Optional- 2 to 3 finely chopped fresh mint leaves
In a large soup pot, over medium high heat, heat the oil, and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until tender; 6 to 8 minutes. Add the chilies, garlic, paprika, pepper, and cumin. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and 1 cup of the water or broth and bring to a boil. Add the 6 cups water or broth, the bay leaves, cayenne, and 10 of the parsley sprigs tied together with cotton string. Mince the remaining parsley and set aside. Lower the heat to medium low and cover aprx. 10 minutes.
Before serving, discard the chilies, bay leaves, and tied parsley. Season with salt. Stir in the reserved minced parsley and cilantro. Add finely chopped mint leaves on top of harrisa for decoration, or can be mixed into the sauce. This "hot sauce" can be used hot or cold.
Salaam